The scientific name for banded cichlid fish is Heros Severus and also called as Cichlasoma severum. They actually have bands on their scales, which makes fish look attractive, and this is how the name banded fish came from. There are other names too like, such as severum, striped Cichlid, sedate Cichlid, deacon, and convict fish.
Banded cichlid fish can be majorly found in the regions of tropical America, Upper Orinoco and Negro Rivers in Brazil, Colombia, and Venezuela. Having a place with the Cichlidae family, Cichlids have in excess of 2,000 species.
Cichlids are a flat out most loved of freshwater aquarists and captivating fish and forceful personality. Among the different reasons individuals pet Cichlids, the one significant explanation is their dynamic vitality, since they investigate each and every inch of your aquarium.
From their bright body to their entertaining conduct, they will keep you enchanted nonstop. Be that as it may, the trouble in their consideration level can’t be denied, since they produce a ton of waste. Thus, on the off chance that you are prepared to invest weighty energy, at that point, this is the fish for you.
Length of banded Cichlid
In general, cichlids grow up to 13.5 cm to 20 cms(max) when appropriate water conditions are provided to them.
Average-sized banded Cichlid has a lifespan of 10years, and if raised in aquariums, it can live for 8years.
Colors of banded Cichlid
Severums are a lovely fish and range from red, yellow, or green. On regular, the Cichlid is greenish shading with a goldish yellow colour to the stomach. Juveniles have eight articulated black vertical bands that blur off as they grow up.
Male and Female Cichlids
Male cichlids will, in general, be more immense than females and more extensive over the chest. Females are more pale and lack some portion of face markings. Male cichlids also have directed dorsal and butt-centric fins, unlike females.
Tanks size for banded Cichlids
More giant tanks are preferred for cichlids as they allow fishes to set up their territories and lessen their aggression. Cichlids require a tank size of a 29-50-gallon tank, so you no need to stress yourself further to change the tank even if the fish grows big. Cichlids prefer to be in horizontal tanks than vertical ones.
Glass tanks or Acrylic tanks for Cichlids
Glass tanks are the most common and affordable but broken easily by small impacts. Whereas, Acrylic tanks are indestructible but scratch out easily than glass tanks. Glass tanks for much suitable for tanks below 100 gallons and acrylic tanks for more than 100 gallons capacity.
The tank lid acts as a safety cover for your Cichlid. It will guarantee that water doesn’t get polluted with dust particles from the top and sometimes saves your aquarium from getting damaged significantly if you have dogs, cats, and small kids in the house. Additionally, tank lids can eliminate the chance of your fish hopping or jump out of the fish tank.
The base of the tank
The majority of the Cichlids prefer the sand-based substrate, only a few types, such as the Convicts, like rock-based substrate. The contrasting tone of the substrate will definitely pop up your fish, spotting them to look beautiful.
This means if you Cichlid is light coloured, then encourage dark coloured substrate and if you have a dark coloured substrate, prefer light contrast substrate so that your fish gets highlighted. Cichlid tank should have at least 3 inches of the layer in the tank, and for having that 3lbs of the substrate is required for one gallon of water.
Water for Cichlid fish tanks
Cichlids are progressed freshwater fishes. The water’s ideal temperature that has to be maintained is about 72-82° F, i.e., 22–28° C. It has to be constant and can be achieved by water warmer equipment. Coming to the pH level, 7.8-8.5 is the advisable rate. Any deviation can further be fixed by adding limestone rocks and coral substrate in the tank.
The other important constraint is the degree of hardness of water, which should be around 10-15 dKH. This level of hardness reflects the natural habitat of cichlids. Cichlids are sensitive to alkali and should always be 0ppm. Fish gets weak if alkali content is more and breathes faster.
Filtration of tank and water replacement
Filtration is the process of clearing all the waste items, debris and pollutants, and undesirable synthetic compounds from the water. The scrubbed water is delivered once more into the tank.
Aquarium filtration can be separated into 3 fundamental categories: Biological, Chemical, and Mechanical. Biological Filter is the kind of filter where the useful bacteria are allowed to grow and develop so that these bacteria perform the natural cycle called a Nitrogen cycle. Mechanical filtration is fundamentally the physical expulsion of particles from the water segment. The chemical filtration technique dissolves the particulates from the aquarium through actuated carbons, resins, and various absorbents and helps keep up water quality.
Never replace the complete amount of the water at once. If you wish to change water consistently at frequent intervals, you have to regularly supplant 5-15% of the tank’s water or lose its biological equalization. Your Cichlids will go into a shock that may bring about their passing.
Severum cichlids are omnivorous animals, so; you can feed both live and solidified food to your Cichlid. They provide on a wide range of nourishments from live worms to vegetables like peas, zucchini, and lettuce. Worms, mealworms, bloodworms, or marine shellfish can be given incidentally. Giving them a changed eating regimen with a blend of vegetables, pellets, and worms will keep them stable and vivid. They develop well when taken care of little segments of food for the duration of the day. Ensure you don’t overload your fish.
We ordinarily suggest that you feed your Cichlids 2-3 times each; sometimes, it is acceptable to give your fish a “day away from work” by fasting them for a day. Health cichlids can undoubtedly go seven to 10 days without fish food.
You can guarantee that your fish satisfy their full life expectancy by giving them a solid diet. Most importantly, attempt to see if the types of Cichlid you have in your tank are herbivore or an omnivore. A Cichlid’s stunning diet should comprise bloodworms, Brine Shrimp, Crayfish, bloodworms, Daphnia, Fruits, melons, and bananas and peach, Green vegetables, for example, asparagus, spinach, and lettuce.
Tankmates for Banded Cichlids:-
It has been seen that Cichlids can live with other serene fish that are bigger than them. Most fish can’t exist together with Cichlid because of their regional, forceful nature. A scavenger, for example, an Apple Snail or Plecostomus, in any case, is a solid match for a Cichlid.
Some fishes are compatible with banded cichlids, namely, Clown Loaches, Redtail shark, Giant danios, Leopard bush fish, Plecos, rainbow fish, and Catfish.
Reproduction in Cichlids
Depending on the parent fish’s age, the female lays 200 – 800 eggs, which are then protected and fertilized by the male. They burrow a gap or clean the level surface or rock of all trash on which they will lay the eggs. The fertilized eggs are light earthy colored in shading. The parent fish protect their region vigorously on such occasions.
The eggs bring forth generally in 3 – 5 days relying upon the water’s pH and temperature in the tank. The parent fish commonly move them to another pit or region. Likewise, you can eliminate the eggs from the tank and put them in an incubation facility to raise them independently.
Once the newborn begins swimming, you can take care of them micro worms, newly brought forth saltwater shrimp, pellets, or daphnia. The guardians will think about their young ones for around 4weeks to a month and a half.
Diseases encountered in Cichlids.
Cichlids are probably the biggest group of freshwater fishes, and they are inclined to build up a few aquarium fish sicknesses. Aquarium fish can be presented to microorganisms, and there is a decent possibility that eventually, they will become ill.
Swim bladder sickness influences the aspect of the Cichlid known as the swim bladder. The swim bladder is a stomach sac fixed with epithelium that enables the fish to remain above water. At the point when a swim bladder infection influences a cichlid, it experiences difficulty in remaining lowered.
External injuries can influence the swim bladder as can specific auxiliary ailments, such as malignancy and tuberculosis. Another primary reason for this condition is dietary – fish experiencing poor nutrition or clogging are bound to create swim bladder sickness. Feed the fish a fluctuated diet and offer high-fiber nourishments like peas and spinach to ease the blockage.
Malawi bloat is a sort of aquarium fish ailment that is generally regular among African cichlids. Side effects, such as growing in the mid-region, fast breathing, loss of appetite, and lolling at the tank’s base. When the tank’s water quality decreases and the fish gets focused on, the protozoans replicate and cause issues.
Tuberculosis is profoundly infectious and, lamentably, and very often in fishes. This ailment’s manifestations ordinarily incorporate loss of craving, frayed balances, white blotches on the skin, and an indented stomach. Influenced fish may likewise show social changes, seeming unenergetic or potentially inactive.
Cotton fleece malady is a genuinely simple condition to analyze in light of the fact that it shows as fluffy white developments on the head, blades, and sizes of tainted cichlids. This disease is brought about by a parasite that is usually found in the aquarium.
Additionally, Hexamita, a hole in the head disease, is genuinely familiar among freshwater fish however is regularly connected with cichlids. This ailment periodically presents as a downturn in the head joined by weight reduction and loss of hunger.
White Spot – Ich disease is caused by a protozoan parasite called Ichthyophthirius multifils – the disease itself called as Ich. The formation of small white dots on fins and gills are the indications of infected fish.
Gill flukes disease is caused by a flatworm that severely infects the gills. Once this parasite is introduced to fish, it attacks the gill membranes by forming a thick coat of slime, causing fish to breathe hard, and you may see fish rubbing to the tank or the tank objects.